Dateline: Monday 24th March 2025. Day 6 - The Launceston Cataract Gorge and King's Bridge

The last 20 minutes of my cruise on the Tamar Estuary included entry to the South Esk River under the King's and Paterson Road Bridges.  We were unable to undertake this venture until the tide had risen.  The depth of the Esk at its confluence with the Tamar is only sufficient for us to cruise about 400 metres up to the narrowing of the Cataract Gorge.  So, the first photo shows the Gorge from the Rotunda Cafe where I had my coffee this morning in the Northern Gardens and the second is taken from the Tamar Odyssey looking from below the bridges back towards the gardens. The section of Gorge in between is unnavigable.

Unfortunately taken from the Tamar Estuary the more recent Paterson Road Bridge obscures the King's Bridge, so the screenshot provides a better view of this bridge.  

The following history and details about the construction of the King's Bridge is derived from: https://www.ourtasmania.com.au/tas-history-bridges.html

"King's Bridge was designed by William T. Doyne in 1861. At that time no facilities existed locally for the manufacture of a wrought iron arch and it was decided to have the girders manufactured by Charles de Bergue and Co. of Manchester, England, assembled in sections of a size suitable for shipping and sent to Launceston for final assembly. King's Bridge met the needs of a growing community on the west bank of the Tamar River who were previously served by a punt which carried vehicles and stock. By 1860 there was increasing pressure on the West Tamar Road Trust to provide a bridge which would provide an uninterrupted service but the trust had not been able to find an economical solution. William T. Doyne arrived in Launceston in 1861 to survey and construct the Launceston to Deloraine railway and was engaged by the Trust to design a suitable bridge. The original bridge was single lane and was duplicated in 1904 to provide two traffic lanes, one in each direction.

King's Bridge is a riveted wrought iron arch bridge spanning about 58 metres with a rise of 6 metres. It was constructed with two arch girders 4.6 metres apart, each girder being 1.2 metres in depth at mid-span and 500 mm wide. The total weight of the girders was 105 tonnes. The girders were fabricated by Charles de Bergue and Co and arrived in Launceston in July 1863. They were then assembled by Salisbury's Engineering Works on a floating dock and taken to the site at high tide then allowed to settle in place on its abutments on the ebb tide. The deck was then formed of three rows of wrought iron plates 1.52 metres in width making up a total deck width of 4.56 metres. The bridge was opened on 11 December 1863. 

By 1900, the original single-lane structure could no longer cope with the increased traffic demand and a decision was made to duplicate the bridge. A contract was let in 1903 to Salisbury Foundry to construct the new girders of stronger material than the original, but otherwise identical to the original girders. The new girders were erected on the same floating dock that had been used for the old arch and on 12 January 1904 the new girders were floated into place and then decked with wrought iron plates. The gap between the two structures was also decked creating a deck of 10.7 metres overall width. In 1988 an inspection of the road plates was undertaken which involved the removal of the road surfacing. The wrought iron plates were found to be in remarkably good condition and the only repairs required were along the plate edges where water had percolated through the surfacing."

The Paterson Bridge was built to relieve traffic congestion on King's Bridge. It opened on November 2, 1973, and was named after Col. William Paterson, the first Governor of the colony of Tasmania. 

Dateline: Monday 24th March 2025 Day 6 - Bird Watching on the Tamar Estuary

I have tried to identify the birds in my photos using: https://ebird.org/hotspot/L1065913/bird-list?yr=cur. This is a site to which International Bird Watchers report up to the minute records of sightings.  I may not have got all of my sightings correct, so if you are interested you can take a look at this website.  It includes some amazing photos of birds at all stages of growth and maturity.

Dateline: Monday 24th March 2025 1430hrs Day 6 - Launceston - An Afternoon Cruise on the Tamar River

We departed Launceston in bright sunshine and blue skies on the Tamar Odyssey for a two-and-a-half-hour cruise of the Tamar Estuary through some important wildlife sanctuaries, past vineyards and the impressive St Matthias Church at Windemere. It was a perfect opportunity to take out my telescopic lens and photo the prolific wildlife along the shores.

Formed by the confluence of the North Esk and South Esk rivers at Launceston, the River Tamar flows generally north towards its mouth at Low Head, north of the settlement at George Town, and into the Bass Strait via Port Dalrymple.  It was named after the River Tamar in South West England by Colonel William Paterson in December 1804. More about Col. Paterson later.

Although referred to as the Tamar River, officially it is a 70-kilometre (43-mile) estuary.

Launceston used to be an important port but its use has declined over the years because of its tendency to silt up.  There have been various attempts to dredge and slow the river flow by sinking vessels at various key bends but without great success. The Tamar is still used for shipping, with light and heavy industries at George Town including aluminium smelters as well as commercial boat cruises.

The cruise this afternoon took us some 40kms northwards along the estuary passing rich wetlands and wildlife sanctuaries as far as the St Matthias Church at Windermere. This Anglican Church overlooks the river in the small town of Windermere. The church was completed in 1843 and was consecrated in 1845 by Tasmania's first Bishop, Francis Russell Nixon. St Matthias was built by landowner Dr Matthias Gaunt as he had allegedly promised his wife before they emigrated from England that "if there was not a church close to their property, he would build one". The small whitewashed bluestone church is in the Gothic Revival style, featuring buttresses and lancet windows. The square tower has a pointed-arch entrance and is topped by a crenelated parapet and corner pinnacles.  Screenshot and these notes courtesy of: https://ausmed.arts.uwa.edu.au/items/show/1046

I had no idea that this part of the Tamar Valley was such a popular wine region with numerous vineyards along the banks. Many of these vineyards are part of a Tamar Valley Wine Trail, offering a variety of wines and experiences.  It includes some 10 vineyards which should make for an interesting day if you visit them all!

I will share more of my bird photos in my next post.

Dateline: Monday 24th March 2025 Day 6 - The Wildlife at Launceston Cataract Gorge

We were greeted by this Wallaby at the entrance to the Cataract Reserve.  I'm sharing this photo here since it's the only decent photo of a Wallaby I managed on the whole trip!

The 'Crumb clearing team' soon appeared at the Rotunda Cafe as I devoured a humongous Almond Croissant. They are known in UK as 'House Sparrows'.

I couldn't resist a shot of the Peacock - the 'Dandies" of the gardens.

Throughout the whole trip we did not see a Wombat - described as 'furry rocks on the move".  The nearest we got was to a Wombat burrow on the Enchanted Forest Walk in the Mt Cradle Park (See photo).

The Enchanted Walk finished next to a pond on which regular ripples could be seen, we were told that this was a Platypus.

Coincidence alert!

I was listening to a late-night Nature Programme yesterday hosted by Sue Perkins - a leading comedienne here in the UK. The programme last night included as a guest, an expert from the London Zoo who explained that male Platypus have a venomous claw on the back of their feet. The exact nature of the venom is not understood but is thought to include a nerve agent.  The claw is used at breeding times to fend of other males.  A keeper who was inadvertently attacked by a male Platypus had a swollen hand and arm, similar to a blown-up Marigold glove, for three weeks!

Second alert!  Did you know that Wombat Poo is square!  Because Wombats live in drier areas water is scarce so there is little moisture in their poo.  It is exuded as a rectangular tablet but once in the air springs into a cube!

Wombats also have a bony structure in their bottoms.  When chased by predators such as Dingoes they will scuttle to their borrow leaving their backsides protruding.  It is said that a swift and hard kick back can crack a Dingo's skull!  Who knew, and perhaps more pertinently, did you want to know?!

I was just interested to see an Ashgrove Dairy Van delivering milk to the Rotunda Cafe in the Cataract Gorge Park.

Dateline: Monday 24th March 2025. Day 6 - I Fly The Launceston Cataract Gorge

This morning I am visiting The Cataract Gorge, Launceston's largest tourist attraction only 1.5km from the city centre and home to the longest single span chairlift in the world, stretching 308 metres (1,010 ft) across the gorge.

The First Basin on the southern side features a swimming pool, the aforementioned chairlift and two cafés.  This Basin has been the subject of controversy about its depth: some locals say it is bottomless; a volcanic plug; or that a submersible robot sent in to find its bottom during the 1960s ran out of cable before accomplishing this feat. The basin was formed by erosion at the intersection of two faults - the Basin Road Fault and an un-named fault approximately at right angles which the South Esk is following. Where the two faults meet, the Dolerite rock was badly shattered and hence more easily eroded, giving rise to the formation of the basin. Measurements in 2016 found the maximum depth to be 20.5 metres (67 ft).

At the lower end of the gorge, the South Esk spills into the Tamar River under King's Bridge and Paterson Bridge (More about these bridges when I post about the Tamar Cruise that I took in the afternoon)

If you would like to see some aerial views of the First Basin and the confluence of the South Esk river with the Tamar River please view this link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cataract_Gorge

Further upstream is the historic Duck Reach Power Station, now an "Interpretation Centre" exhibiting the history of the Power Station. The Launceston City Council originally commissioned the Power Station in 1893, making it the largest hydro-electric scheme of its day and by 1895 it was lighting the city, making it, as I mentioned in my previous post, one of the first places to be lit by Hydro-electric power in Australia. It was decommissioned in 1955 following the construction of the Trevallyn Dam and power station further up the South Esk River.

Perhaps unsurprisingly this section of river is a renowned for its whitewater and provides for world class kayaking. A annual race is scheduled in late January, thanks to Hydro Tasmania.

In the last decade there have been two serious floods in the Cataract Gorge, The first in 2016 and in August 2022. The following link to an Australian Broadcasting Corporation report dated Thursday 18th August 2022 illustrates the impact of the floods on the First Basin and at the confluence of the South Esk River and Tamar River beyond the King's Bridge. The two screenshots of the floods above are taken from this website.

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-08-18/flooding-inundates-cataract-gorge-launceston/101347092

A final notable structure where the South Esk River opens into the First Basin, is the Alexandra Suspension Bridge designed by St. John David and built by Salisbury Foundry Co.

Lady Edeline Strickland (The founder and president of the New South Wales division of the Australian Red Cross) opened the bridge to the public in 1904, naming it in honour of Queen Alexandra, the Danish wife of King Edward VII and famous for establishing the Queen Alexandra Nursing Core.

The bridge was destroyed by floods in 1929 and has been rebuilt twice, once in 1934 and again in 2004. The current refurbishment, begun in 2020, has included the erection of A-frame towers and additional anchor bolts. 

The shaded northern side, referred to as the 'Cliff Grounds', is a Victorian era garden where peacocks roam proudly among ferns and exotic plants, which is contrasted with the southern side's cafe and public swimming pool, where locals can enjoy a swim from November to March and a sunbathe on the grassy banks, known to locals as Launceston's Beach. 

Dateline: Monday 24th March 2025 Day 6 Tasmanian Wonders Tour - Launceston- The Cataract Gorge Gardens

In case you are wondering where Launceston (Pronounced Lawn-ceston) is located, I attach a map. After leaving Ashgrove Dairy Farm we travelled east along the north coast of Tasmania before driving inland parallel to the Tamar River Estuary. 

Launceston is a city built at the confluence of the North Esk and South Esk rivers where they become the Tamar River.

Settled by Europeans in March 1806, Launceston is one of Australia's oldest cities and it has many historic buildings. Like many places in Australia, it was named after a town in the United Kingdom – in this case, Launceston, Cornwall. Launceston also had the first use of anaesthetic in the Southern Hemisphere, it was the first Australian city to have underground sewers, and it was the first Australian city to be lit by hydroelectricity.

The first significant colonial settlement in the region dates from 1804, when the commandant of the colonial garrison. Lt. Col. William Paterson, and his men set up a camp on the current site of George Town. A few weeks later, the settlement was moved across the river to York Town, and a year later was moved to where Launceston now stands.

Initially, the settlement was called Patersonia, however, Paterson later changed the name to Launceston in honour of the New South Wales Governor Captain Philip Gidley King, who was born in Launceston, Cornwall. Paterson also served as Lieutenant-Governor of northern Van Diemen's Land from 1804 to 1808.

So that's probably enough to introduce Launceston but if you would like to learn more then this is the website for you:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Launceston,_Tasmania?variant=zh-cn

After a gloriously late start at 9.00am we drove the short distance (1.5km) to the Launceston Cataract Gorge Reserve. Once again a desire to understand the origins of this Gorge led me to this interesting website

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2019-08-11/history-of-launcestons-cataract-gorge/11399272

"Launceston's Cataract Gorge is renowned for its "natural" beauty — but what many don't realise is it took dynamite, the digging up of a swamp and planting of scores of trees over a 100 years ago to make it the tourism drawcard it is today.

Before the 1890s the gorge, which is in the heart of the city, was difficult for locals, let alone tourists, to access.

A local historian Marion Sargent said the Launceston City and Suburbs Improvement Association was formed in 1890 by a group of local men.

"They decided that they wanted to make the gorge accessible to everyone and improve it," said Ms Sargent, who is part of the Launceston Historical Society."

The first stage was to build a pathway along the north cliff face of the Gorge from the King's Bridge where the North Esk River meets the South Esk river (More about that in my post about the river cruise later that afternoon) and the First Basin that now forms the major part of the Cataract Gorge Reserve.

"150 tonnes of rock was thrown into the river so they could get through and make the track."

From swamp to lush garden

A Launceston Examiner newspaper article from 1893 reported that the cliff ground area (That now forms the major part of the reserve and known as the First Basin)* was initially a "deep and muddy swamp" that had formed by "ages of winter rains falling down the lateral gullies".

NB * the parenthesis is my addition.

"The swamp was filled with frogs, snakes, mosquitoes and leeches, and 22 people from the Launceston area worked to dig it out and create a "fine lawn"."

I will explain more in my next post but some photos from the above website to illustrate the construction of the Reserve and mine overlooking the First Basin as it is today.  Sorry not a panoramic view but taken as I panned right from the bridge and the swimming pool.

Dateline: Sunday 23rd March 2025 Day 5 - Launceston - Another Coincidence!

We were to spend two nights at the Launceston Best Western Plus but we had to forage for our Dinners on both days.  Not that I am complaining about that since it offered an opportunity to find out more about local life and some of my companion guests on the tour.  I finished up in a pub where I met up with  Moira, who was from Christchurch New Zealand.  We quickly attracted another couple from the tour and shared a very pleasant meal together. I, of course, enjoyed my 'go to dish' of fish and chips!

Our route back to the hotel took us past the Princess Theatre where the pavement was busy with theatre goers who had just emerged after a performance. It must have been enjoyed since there was a buzz of excitement in the air.

 

I took a glance at a poster and realised that it had been a performance of Billy Elliot. The film of the musical Billy Elliott is one of my all-time favourites, starring Julie Walters. The story is set in a tough mining village in County Durham at the time of the Miners' Strike in 1984. A young boy has a strong desire to dance and, much against his Father's wishes (A miner), is persuaded to join local ballet classes run by Julie Walters. To cut a long story short, Billy gains entry to the Royal Ballet School and becomes a Principal Dancer.

The coincidence(s), first I lived in an ex-mining village called Sherburn, Durham from 1979 to1987. The film is set in the nearby village of Easington which had been the site of some of the protests. The second coincidence is that I saw a charity pre-opening performance of the Musical Billy Elliot, in London around 2009, with a group of colleagues from the the company I was working for at the time. It was a truly memorable performance, full and innovation and fun telling the stories of the Miner's often violent and bitter fight with the police to keep the pits open on one half of the stage whilst on the other telling the story of Billy's fight to dance.

As if this wasn't enough, as we turned the corner to reach our hotel entrance the young stars, 13-year-old Zeb Peters and 12-year-old George Boyle, both born in Tasmania, were emerging from the Stage Door to be mobbed by a throng of adoring fans!

So how did I find this out, well a bit of sleuthing on the internet with a recall of the name Zeb, yielded the  following AI generated note:

"In the March 2025 Encore Theatre Company production of "Billy Elliot the Musical" in Launceston, Tasmania, the title role was played by George Boyle and Zeb Peters. The show ran from March 14-29, 2025, at the Princess Theatre in Launceston." This led me to search for George Boyle and to discover that he must have played the younger Billy Elliott in the performance that evening.

https://betm.theskykid.com/meet-billy-elliot-george-boyle/#:~:text=With%20his%20debut%20performance%20as,more%20information%20about%20George%2C%20visit:

I quote from the above website:

"With his debut performance as Billy Elliot on 13-Mar-2025, George becomes the 373rd young actor worldwide to play the role of Billy in a professional, regional or community theatre production of the musical."

For my Australian readers, the UK 1994-85 Miners' strike was a major industrial action in an attempt to prevent closures of pits that were uneconomic in the coal industry, that had been nationalised in 1947.

I had no idea when I began this post that it would lead me on such a nostalgic journey, but as you can see travel 'does make memories!' 

Dateline: Tuesday 22nd April 2025 Home - As One Cow Said to the Other?!

Three jokes to share with you from Ashgrove Farm.

Who do cows hang out with?

"Udder Cows" Boom Boom!

A farmer counted 398 cows.

But when he rounded them up, he had 400!!

What do cows use when they text?

E-MOO-jis!!

Dateline: Sunday 23rd March 2025. Day 5 Ashgrove Dairy Farm Factory - Anyone for Wasabi Flavoured Cheese?!

Our last engagement for the day was a visit to the Ashgrove Dairy Farm Factory.  Here we tasted the selection of cheeses illustrated in the photo. The Rubicon Red and the Wasabi flavoured were my favourites!

As a lover of sweeter delights, I also treated myself to a Hokey-Pokey Ice Cream cone - 2 scoops - delicious.

Just a couple of photos to share from the farm - 'The Cow Mobile' - with some very regal looking occupants and the Cheese Store!  I've also added some photos of the rich countryside as we drove from Sheffield to the farm.

The story of the Farm is interesting and you can read more at:

https://www.ashgrovecheese.com.au/pages/our-products

I've taken the liberty of downloading from this site a synopsis of the main elements of how this now famous business originated.

"FAMILY-OWNED SINCE 1908

It all started with a few sheep, a paddock full of vegetables and a herd of dairy cows.

This was Eddington Farm, Ashgrove's original parcel of land, in 1908.

Back in those days, 'pasture-raised' and 'organic' were just the norm, and family enterprises like Eddington provided top-notch products for their community.

But as the years marched on, the value of dairy took a tumble. Big players flooded the market with cheap milk and made it tough for local farmers to compete on price.

Brothers, Michael and John Bennett were born and raised on Eddington Farm in the 1940s, and together with their wives Maureen and Connie, formed the Ashgrove Farm Partnership in 1983.

Their goal was to gain independence from low commodity prices by adding extra value to their milk.

So they took a leap of faith and became an on-farm dairy manufacturer, establishing the Ashgrove Farm Factory and specialising in premium quality, traditionally-styled cheese at source.

FARMING FOR OVER 100 YEARS

Ashgrove's on-farm factory is proudly supplied by six family farms and five dairies, each playing a vital role in crafting exceptional dairy products. Each operated with generations of care and dedication by the Bennett families.

Some of the farms are nestled right next to world heritage-listed wilderness areas, while others lie along riverbanks or beneath dramatic bluffs. These farms thrive in Tasmania's unique conditions, where the 41° latitude™ and sustainable farming practices create exceptionally fertile land.

In Tassie's cool temperate climate, slow-growing grasses naturally brim with nutrients. The cows graze freely on these lush pastures, roaming open paddocks as nature intended. You can see the golden glow in their milk—a testament to the mineral-rich grasses they enjoy.

The Bennett families and their dedicated farming partners take immense pride in caring for the soil, pastures, trees, wildlife, and waterways. They use traditional fertilisers, avoid GMOs, and proactively protect native bushland and waterways to encourage vibrant ecosystems.

With a localised approach to farming, these dairies keep food miles incredibly low - sometimes just metres - ensuring unparalleled freshness. It's this close connection to the land, the cows, and their craft that defines their dedication to quality.

This isn't just farming; it's a legacy of passion and provenance passed down through generations, pouring heart into every drop of milk. That's the true essence of Ashgrove.

WELCOME TO MOO-TOPIA

Every day at Ashgrove starts in the same way: caring for the cows that supply the on-farm factory with fresh, premium milk.

Milking happens at dawn, and the cows know the routine. They make their way to the milking sheds, some still grazing, and eagerly await their milking time.

The cows are handled gently from birth, raised in a low-stress and sensitive manner. This, when combined with a natural lifestyle of roaming freely on open pastures, leads unsurprisingly to milk of exceptional quality.

The herds on the family farms are a special mix of Brown Swiss, Jersey, and Holstein-Friesian breeds. Brown Swiss and Jersey cows are chosen for their creamy, high-butterfat milk, while Holstein-Friesians are valued for their robustness and strong production capacity.

With a focus on animal welfare and sustainable farming practices, the Ashgrove farming families always strive to produce the finest milk possible. Committed to the health and happiness of the cows that supply our factory, ensuring the best quality at every step."

Dateline: Sunday 23rd March 2025. Day 5 - Sheffield - I Spot A Car From Yester-Year

Can you tell me what make of car is shown in this photo taken in Sheffield as I was walking away for the Mural Park?  I can and at least two of the followers of this Blog will know too.

It's a Fiat 124.  I owned one in racing green in the mid 1970s!

Yet another of those coincidences!!

Dateline: Sunday 23rd March 2025. Day 5 Sheffield - A Town of Murals

From Penguin our journey along the northwest coast also passed through Ulverstone and Sheffield - 'The Town of Murals'.

Sheffield was one of the many early townships settled in 1859. It was named by Edward Curr after his home town in South Yorkshire, England.

The area grew slowly, but the commencement of the Mersey-Forth Power Development Scheme in 1963 saw the town grow dramatically. The power scheme, comprising seven dams and seven power stations was completed in 1973. We drove by the Devils Gate Dam on our way into Sheffield. The dam is 84 metres (276 ft) high and is one of the thinnest concrete arch dams in the world. Once, however, the Development Scheme was completed in 1973, the population decreased rapidly.

Sheffield's revival as the "Town of Murals" began as a bid by a small group of residents determined to save their town. Inspired by the story of Chemainus, a small Canadian town that had through mural art, rescued itself from ruin, the Kentish Association for Tourism (KAT) in Tasmania worked on the vision to combine the arts and tourism to revive and reinvent the town of Sheffield.

The first town mural was painted in Sheffield in December 1986. Since then, over 60 murals depicting the area's rich history and beautiful natural scenery have been painted on walls throughout the town and buildings along the roadside.  I have selected just a few of these town murals to include above.

The murals attract an estimated 200,000 people to the town annually and today a number of studios are open to the public where visitors can watch the artists at work. They are drawn from many disciplines, including photography, fine art, glass, woodcraft, pottery, ceramics and specialised crafts.

Sorry I don't have titles for the Murals except for the 3rd one - the Old Wireless Shop. The 2nd photo is an illustration of the extinct Tasmanian Tiger (Thylacine) that is an ancestor of the Tasmanian Devil.

Sheffield is also home to an International Mural Fest art competition that has been held annually since 2003 and returns in April each year. A poem is selected, which the artists use as their inspiration. After each competition the nine finalist murals remain on display at Mural Park until the next competition. I have attached a few of the entries that were currently on display.