Monday, 12 May 2025

Dateline: Thursday 27th March 2025 Day 9 - I See A Wombat at Last - Well A Paw Print!

Despite all my efforts throughout this journey from Darwin to Adelaide, Kangaroo Island and my tour of Tasmania, I failed to see "a furry rock on the move' - a Wombat.   I did get to see a Wombat Burrow in the Enchanted Forest but the nearest I got was to the 'paw print' of a Wombat set into a brick in the Penitentiary at Port Arthur!

Margaret, my AATKings Travel Director, knew that I liked 'special photos' so pointed out this imprint as we were walking through the ruins.

So it's May 12th 2025 as I signify son yet another rich and enjoyable journey. I hope you have enjoyed following my travels as much as I have in writing what has become more of a journal than a travel blog.

Until the next time Au Revoir.

Dateline: Thursday 27th March 2025 Day 9 - Port Arthur Penal Colony - The Living Hell of the Separate Prison

As our Port Arthur Guide described in graphic detail, until the opening of the Separate Prison corporal punishment, for the repeated or worst offenders, took the form of 'lashings' using a cat of nine tails - strips of leather with knotted ends, inset with pieces of lead and then dried to cause maximum pain and wounds to the back flesh of the convict.  Such punishment would often be for 100 lashes. A Guard Officer would officiate and if he decided that the recipient had passed out would raise his arm to call a halt for a medical officer to make an assessment. The convict might then be released and his wounds dressed with lard and salt and he would be sent back to work in the ship yard where he would spend most of his day up to his shoulders in sea water.  After some weeks, and once the wounds had healed, the poor wretch would be dragged back to receive the remaining lashes of the punishment.
Once the Penitentiary had been built there were early attempts to move away from physical punishment by providing cells of differing size. The Penitentiary was built over 4 levels. The lowest level had the smallest and windowless cells with just enough room to sling a hammock.  Good behaviour was rewarded by moving to cells at a higher level with the top cells offering light and more space. None of the higher-level cells remain inside the shell of the Penitentiary (See previous post for photo of 'The lowest Level Cell')
The Separate Prison system also signalled a more concerted shift from physical punishment to psychological punishment aimed at reform. For example, food was used to reward well-behaved prisoners and as punishment for troublemakers. As a reward, a prisoner could receive larger amounts of food or even luxury items such as tea, sugar and tobacco but as a punishment
prisoners would receive the bare minimum of bread and water. 
The move away from physical to psychological punishment, however, had disastrous outcomes for the worst offending convicts and remember that the Separate Prison was meant for the worst offenders. Under this system of punishment a "Silent System" was implemented for all convicts in the building. Prisoners were hooded and made to stay silent; this was supposed to allow time for prisoners to reflect upon the actions that had brought them there. Even in the exercise yards or the chapel prisoners were hooded and were placed in separate compartments in the chapel so that they could not see or communicate with each other (See photo).
The ultimate psychological punishment was to be placed in a cell with no windows surrounded by foot thick sandstone walls with two entry doors at right angles. Once inside a prisoner could hear nothing and would be made to suffer total darkness for some days, a wicked form of sensory deprivation. I had a look inside this cell but recoiled at the intense blackness and that was without shutting the doors. 
Unsurprisingly many of the prisoners in the Separate Prison developed mental illness from the lack of light and sound. Although this was an unintended consequence (Mental health science had not yet progressed sufficiently) it necessitated the building of an Asylum next door.
Port Arthur was also the destination for juvenile convicts, receiving many boys, some as young as nine. They were separated from the main convict population at Point Puer and used for hard labour, such as stone cutting and construction. 
You can read much more about the Port Arthur Penal Colony at:
So, what were my final thoughts as I took one last look back (See photo).
Despite the attempts to take a more enlightened view of imprisonment, the reality was that Port Arthur was still as harsh and brutal as other penal settlements. From my university studies of psychology, I already knew that the use of psychological punishment, especially sensory deprivation, compounded with no hope of escape, made it one of the worst forms of reform. There is evidence from the above website to suggest that some prisoners committed murder (an offence punishable by death) just to escape the desolation of life at the camp.
The Isle of the Dead was the destination for all who died inside the prison camps. Of the 1,646 graves recorded to exist there, only 180, those of prison staff and military personnel, are marked. The prison closed in 1877.
The question remains do our modern prisons do any better?

Dateline: Thursday 27th March 2025 Day 9 Tasmanian Wonders Tour - Port Arthur Penal Colony Paradise or Hell?



Van Diemen's Land and Port Arthur
Well, here we are at the last full day of this Tasmanian Wonders Tour and what wonderful weather greeted us this morning as we entered the Historic Port Arthur Penal Colony Site.  In the bright, warm sunshine the first impression is that you are in paradise until you realise that the building you are viewing is the ruins of the Penitentiary block of this Colonial Penal Colony!
Port Arthur is a town, named after George Arthur, the Lieutenant Governor of Van Diemen's Land, and former convict settlement located some 97 kilometres (60 mi) southeast of Hobart.
Collectively, this site, along with 10 others, are described by UNESCO as "the best surviving examples of large-scale convict transportation and the colonial expansion of European powers through the presence and labour of convicts.'
Van Diemen's Land was the colonial name of the island of Tasmania during the European exploration and colonisation of Australia in the 19th century. The Aborigine-inhabited island was first visited by a Dutch ship captained by Abel Tasman in 1642, working under the sponsorship of Anthony van Diemen, the Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies.The British retained the name when they established a settlement in 1803 before it became a separate colony in 1825. 
The name was changed to Tasmania on 1st January 1856 to disassociate the island from its convict past and to honour its discoverer, Abel Tasman. The old name had become a byword for horror in England because of the severity of its convict settlements such as Macquarie Harbour. (Sarah Island) and Port Arthur. 
Penal colony
The Port Arthur convict settlement was established in September 1830 as a timber-getting camp, producing sawn logs for government projects. From 1833 until 1877, it was the destination for those deemed the most hardened of transported convicts, so-called "secondary offenders", who had persistently re-offended during their time in Australia. They were sent to Port Arthur because it had some of the strictest security measures in the British penal system and a reputation for being escape-proof but also based on the premise that prisoners could be reformed while still being punished, more about this later.
You may recall from my posts on Sarah Island that when it closed the inmates were transported to Port Arthur. It was to be the destination of the 'Ship That Never Was" before being captured by some of the last convicts to leave Sarah Island. Just to note here too that this vessel was the last to be built at Sarah Island. Shipbuilding also formed one of the major activities at Port Arthur (See Photo and Site Map).
The Separate Prison was completed in 1853 and extended in 1855. The layout was symmetrical, a cross shape with exercise yards at each corner. The prisoner wings were connected to the central surveillance hall of the prison, that also included a chapel. From the central hall, each wing could be seen, but not individual cells. 
The design of the "Separate Prison", was based on Jeremy Bentham's philosophy of prison and social reform known as the Panopticon in the 18th century, a design of institutional building with an inbuilt system of control. The concept was to allow all prisoners of an institution to be observed by a single corrections officer, without the inmates knowing whether or not they are being watched.
In my next post I will say more about the attempts to reform the most recalcitrant prisoners whilst still being punished.








Saturday, 10 May 2025

Dateline: Wednesday 26th March 2025 Day 8 - Richmond - A Stunning Model Village Of Old Habart

Hidden away down a narrow lane in Richmond, Old Hobart Town is a miniature replica of Hobart in the 1820's that portrays life in this fast-growing colonial town and at one and the same time offers a deep and meaningful understanding of Hobart and Australia's history and in particular its harsh convict past. 
This model village was built over three years, from original, historical plans. As you walk the streets of Old Hobart, the informative signage tells the story of how and why Hobart was so important to the Australian colonies. Photos at strategic points around the model village show how Hobart looks today thereby making comparisons easy.  
The model village covers an area the size of two tennis courts and consists of over sixty replica model buildings, five to six hundred period figures, including convicts, gentlemen and even ladies of the night and over one hundred native myrtle bonsai trees. 
The owners and creators of the village, John and Andrew Quick, spent many thousands of hours faithfully recreating in miniature this representation of life in this formative era of Australia's history. It shows how the early town differs from the modern city of today, yet recognisable features and buildings can still be seen.
On entering the village, I was given a beautifully hand-drawn map of the village (See photo) illustrated by Andrew Quick. Using this as a guide, I was free to wander the streets of early Hobart, observing what life would have been like 200 years ago and to reflect upon the brutal existence of many of its inhabitants. The map indicates where the different areas of the model village relate to modern day Hobart, and the buildings that are still in existence today (Coloured yellow on the map). 
I took lots of photos but it's difficult to illustrate the detail of this model village so, I have selected a few of the best. My photos in order from the top down illustrate:
  • Sullivan's Cove
  • The Commissariat Store (Sounds very Russian to me!
  • The Court House (Still in existence) 
  • Prison Gallows
  • Myrtle Bonsais
  • Avert your eyes!
  • A Convict Chain Gang
  • A Prison Escapee
For a more details about the village I recommend that you take a look at this Blog:
https://czechingoutofhere.com/2021/09/07/hobart-model-village
At first sight this link may look strange so before you take a look, read what the author of the Blog, James has to say:
"I'm an Irish chap currently living in Hobart, Tasmania and loving it. This place is special and I still have so much to see! You're probably wondering what living in Hobart has to do with the name Czeching Out? This blog started back in early 2013 when I moved to the Czech Republic for two years. I started this blog as a way of sharing that adventure with those interested in moving there or finding out what's there to see in the Czech Republic. Now that I live in Tasmania, I'm continuing that original goal of sharing my experience with others."James goes on to encapsulate what I have been trying to do with my blogs:
"Most posts will be in the format of a few hundred words about the subject and then I'll share some photos to give a better picture of what it was like. Of course, neither a thousand words or even a picture can truly do a place justice so I highly encourage people to come to Tassie and check out what makes it such a special place."
Perhaps a few more words with me (!) but the photos are also important.  James in his blog had more time to take photos than my 30 minutes and to add some captions to bring to life some of the more whimsical aspects of Old Hobart.
This visit really captured my interest and made for a unique and fascinating visit.

Wednesday, 7 May 2025

Dateline: Wednesday 26th March 2025. Day 8 - Richmond and its Landmark Coal River Bridge


Richmond is 25 km north-east of Hobart and has retained many of its sandstone structures as they were originally built in the Georgian style. Richmond's most famous landmark is the Coal River Bridge, built between 1823 and 1825, around the time of the town's first settlement. Its design and build were a significant technical achievement for what, back then, was a new colony, and for ten years it had the longest span of any bridge in Australia. it is Australia's oldest surviving large stone arch bridge that is still in use today.
The history of Richmond has its origins in the use of the forced migration of convicts from the UK and the use of their labour for the development of the new colony. It's an interesting story that will set the scene for my last few posts when I want to explore in more depth the development of Van Diemen's Island (Tasmania) and its penal colonies.
I have drafted the precis below about the founding and development of Richmond from the following Australian Government, Heritage and Place website:
The Founding of the Richmond
From 1803 to 1853, over 73,500 convicts were transported to Tasmania. Richmond was one of the first areas to be explored following English settlement of the Island.
In 1803, a small party led by Lieutenant John Bowen crossed the hills from the Derwent Valley to look for suitable land for settlement. Richmond soon became an important crossing point for people travelling by land between Hobart, the east coast and the Tasman Peninsula.
Rapid population growth and Tasmania's emerging agricultural industry soon necessitated the need for a connecting bridge over the Coal River. Construction began in 1823, with convicts building the bridge by hand from local sandstone.
The Richmond boom
The completion of the bridge saw the town of Richmond and the surrounding region rapidly expand. By 1835, Richmond was Tasmania's third largest town and had grown into an important military outpost and convict station. Richmond became a transport hub for travellers moving between Hobart and Port Arthur.
I found the following interesting account of the use of convict labour at this Wikipedia website: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richmond,_Tasmania
"The Grass Tree Hill Road and Governor Arthur's Road leading into Richmond were built from 1833 to 1838 by groups of convicts known as 'Chain Gangs'. These prisoners were sentenced to day-labouring near the town and were employed in construction within the localised area. They frequently experienced shortages of food and clothing, which lead many of the men to steal from each other as well as from neighbouring houses. Prisoners also lay kangaroo traps as a means of supplementing rations. Anyone that was found to be stealing or was caught laying traps was severely punished. In 1834 and 1835, there were a number of resistance efforts in response to the shortages. Some men refused to attend church, refused to labour and there was even a rebellion led by five prisoners who wielded their picks against authorities. Many of the Georgian style buildings which are present in the township today were constructed by these convict gangs, including the Bridge, the Court House and the Gaol"
Coal River Bridge, Richmond
https://www.ourtasmania.com.au/tas-history-bridges.html See this website for the history of many of the bridges I have described already in my posts.
Initially Richmond Bridge, although larger, was identical in line and design to Stourhead Bridge at the Stourhead Gardens in Wiltshire, England, which Wilson (See the biographical note below), it is thought, copied. Subsequent modifications were made to its pier foundations due to settlement after a few years of its construction. 
In 1885, as a result of flood damage, bulky buttresses were attached to the three mid-stream piers. These were required to further protect the piers and foundations against water damage during times of heavy rainfall and flooding.
William Hartley Wilson as described in: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richmond_Bridge_(Tasmania) 
"held not only the role of Superintendent of Stonemasons but also the role of Colonial Architect for Van Diemen's Land. Wilson was not a qualified architect; rather, he had been appointed to that role by Lieutenant Governor Sorell in the absence of a more qualified candidate.' 
Again the following Australian Government Heritage website provides a more detailed account of Wilson's architectural contributions to Hobart. He is credited with the original Treasury Building in Macquarie Street, Hobart and elements of the original Supreme Court building.












Tuesday, 6 May 2025

Dateline: Wednesday 26th March 2025. Day 8 Tasmanian Wonders Tour - Bicheno to Hobart - Cape Tourville, Pink Rocks, The Nuggets and Cape Tourville Lighthouse

So, we have come almost full circle back to Hobart for the final two nights of this tour.
Our stops today were to view the beautiful pink rocks of Coles Bay on the Freycinet peninsular, the Cape Tourville Lighthouse, the historic town of Richmond with its famous landmark bridge and a spectacular model village depicting Old Hobart.
Freycinet National Park is on the east coast of Tasmania, 125 kilometres (78 mi) northeast of Hobart. It occupies a large part of the Freycinet Peninsula, named after French navigator Louis de Freycinet. Founded in 1916, it is Tasmania's oldest park. The park contains part of the rugged Tasmanian coastline formed mainly of Devonian granite but it is Orthoclase, a pink feldspar, that gives the mountains and coastline their characteristic pink tint.
The Cape Tourville Lighthouse was built in 1971 by private contractors, is automatic and unmanned. 
The pathway up to the lighthouse overlooks The Nuggets a close group of four granite islets, with a combined area of 6.76 hectares (16.7 acres). 
In the breeding season the Islets are home to numerous species of seabirds including Little  Penguin, Short-tailed Shearwater, Fairy Prion, Common Diving-Petrel, White-faced Storm-Petrel, Pacific Gull, Silver Gull, Black-faced Cormorant and Caspian Tern. Today with the help of some stationary binoculars we could see some Australian Fur Seals resting on convenient ledges.
It was a rather overcast that morning so my photos reflect the 'moody sky, with shafts of sunlight on the horizon.

Monday, 5 May 2025

Dateline: Tuesday 25th March 2025. Day 7 - The Bicheno Blow Hole - Now You See It, Now You Don't!

Our last engagement for the day was to view the Blow Hole at Bicheno, a little fishing and holiday village on the east coast of Tasmania near the Bay of Fires and the Freycinet National Park. 
Tasmania is mostly formed of dolerite rock that is only found in Australia. The blowhole, however, is formed of granite. Over thousands of years, the ocean has battered the granite to carve out a sea cave. The water, battering the inside of the cave, found a weak spot in the ceiling to form a blow hole through the granite. As the water rushes into the cave and hits the walls and swells with increasing pressure, it erupts out of the hole. 
The geyser erupts with varying force and the water makes different shapes with every surge of the ocean. It can also blow with great force even when the ocean is relatively calm but not today!  
I didn't manage to get a photo of 'A Blow' but you can see the rock formations covered in red lichen.  
I have borrowed from the internet a photo of what the 'blow' looks like on a more active sea day.


Dateline: Tuesday 25th March 2025. Day 7 - I Defend my Lunch Against Marauding Sea Gulls!

We stopped for lunch at St Helens, the largest town on the north-east coast of Tasmania, on Georges Bay. It is known as the game fishing capital of Tasmania and is also renowned for its oysters and Fish & Chips!!. It is located on the Tasman Highway, about 160 km east of Tasmania's second largest city, Launceston. 
St Helens was first used as a whaling base in the early 19th century. When tin was discovered in the surrounding area in the 1870s, St Helens became the shipping port for the mines.  The town is named after St Helens, Isle of Wight, today the town's economy is based largely on tourism, fishing and timber. 
Since Fish and Chips at the Wharf Restaurant had been recommended, guess where I headed?!  It was a little walk from the town centre to the Marina on the bay but boy was it worth the walk.  I enjoyed some of the best Fish & Chips I have ever tasted!  The only problem was defending my food from a gang of screeching Sea Gulls!  It has been my experience that there is always a 'Gang Leader' who spends most of the time chasing off other gulls, so meet the Al Capone of the St Helen's!
On another note of remembrance,  I found this silhouette of a WWII soldier on a brick wall at the end of alley leading from the Car Park to the Main Street. I later discovered that it was a piece of artwork connected with the Australian War Memorial Museum that was housed in an adjacent building. Sadly, not enough time to pay a visit.

Dateline: Tuesday 25th March 2025. Day 7 - The Legerwood Carved Memorial Trees - Part II

Private Robert James Jenkins – aged 28 years and killed near Flers (Somme) July 1st, 1917: The story of Robert "Bobby" Jenkins is perhaps the most poignant of the seven men. Private Jenkins migrated to Ringarooma from England at the start of the 20th century and made his living touring local halls as a tenor.  It was in his new found home that he met young Amy (Trippy) Forsyth, and the two were engaged shortly before he went to war.
Private Jenkins fell at the Somme in 1917 and a heartbroken Trippy never married.  She kept a photo of Private Jenkins, together with his engagement ring, beside her bed until she died at the age of 76.  The photo was used to carve his likeness in the tree, looking across at his fiancĂ© on an opposite limb.
I have just discovered, courtesy of Wikipedia that on 10 April 2018, deteriorating carvings of several characters (Mr and Mrs Thomas Edwards, the nurse, and Trippy Forsyth) were replaced with new carvings by Jason Chard of Tasmanian Burl and Steve Morris of Mobile Milling Tasmania.
Private George Peddle – aged 25 years and killed at Passchendaele on October 13th, 1917: Private Peddle was the son of George Peddle Snr, famous for his wooden chairs which have now become sought after collectables. Before he enlisted Private Peddle was the Manager of his father's sawmill, a bushman and a bullock driver.
Private John Henry Gregg McDougall – aged 19 years. Died at Passchendaele on October 13th, 1917: Private McDougall was a porter at the Railway Station, which once stood directly behind the memorial reserve.  His statue now stands holding signal flags directing traffic through the town.
It is ironic that Privates McDougall and Peddle both fell on the same day in the same battle at Passchendaele; this would have been very little comfort for their families in such a tight-knit town."
There are two additional carvings, one a tribute to the Anzacs who fought at Gallipoli  (See the photo of the plague) and the second to the Anzacs (See photo of the plaque).
I spent a few minutes in the old Train Carriage that now acts as a museum browsing the exhibits before making a donation in the form of two packs of Anzac home baked biscuits and a pamphlet recording a ceremony that took place on 22nd July 2007, when local families were invited to plant a tree as "A living remembrance for the young people of the Legerwood district who we loved and lost".
What I found most inspiring and memorable about this visit was the extensive historical research into the lives of the fallen soldiers and their families that ensured the carvings depicted stories of the men and women they represented as accurately as possible. For me it made it made a powerful reminder that we must never forget the sacrifice that so many gave and I write this on Monday 5th May 2025 as we begin a few days of celebration to recall VE Day 80 years on next Thursday 8th May 2025 and say 'Thank You' for those 80 years of peace in our country but sadly not in the world.


Dateline: Thursday 27th March 2025 Day 9 - I See A Wombat at Last - Well A Paw Print!

Despite all my efforts throughout this journey from Darwin to Adelaide, Kangaroo Island and my tour of Tasmania, I failed to see "a f...